by Katie Addleman

April 1, 2008

Nestled along the Mediterranean coast in the lower half of Catalunya, the crescent moon-shaped comarca (county) of Tarragonès is a watery playground, as beach after sandy beach stretches away towards the neighbouring counties of Baix Penedès and Baix Camp. Its seaside geography means that it was, and continues to be, a principal site of Catalan industry (indeed, the capital city of Tarragona is still a port town, with the second-busiest shipping fleet in all of Spain), but in recent years the focus of its economy has predictably shifted from fish to tourists. And while its seemingly endless coastline makes it the ideal place for the leisurely pleasures of summer holidaymaking, the comarca’s long-standing cultural significance—most clearly manifested in its ancient and monument-laden capital—makes it a worthy tourist destination at any time of year.

The medieval period saw the rise of many of the comarca’s 21 principalities, as well as their attendant fortification; as such there are a number of impressive castells (castles) to visit, which both dominate the comarca’s towns and villages and dot its quiet, rural landscapes. Long before rival Counts of the 11th and 12th centuries built these crumbling landmarks, however, the Romans had already been and gone—but not without leaving their mark in their typically grandiose fashion. These monuments, too, are must-sees for any tourist keen to take advantage of more than the area’s sunny platjes (beaches).

The southern end of the comarca sees the start of the Costa Daurada, where Tarragonès becomes increasingly built-up. Salou, for example, home of the Port Aventura amusement park, bears the obvious marks of the tourist onslaught. But these areas are easily avoided, with more worthy destinations being tiny enclaves like Vespella de Gaià and Perafort—rural communities marked by well-preserved traditions, where people still live from the cultivation of almonds, olives and vines.

Things to see

In the middle of the comarca and easily accessible, the UNESCO World Heritage City of Tarragona is a good place to start one’s Tarragonès experience. During their approximately 250-year occupation of the town, the Romans built the numerous monuments that form the core of Tarragona’s cultural importance today, and its appeal to travellers and tourists. The amphitheatre, circus and city walls (muralles) were all built between 200 BCE and 1 CE, and are the principal archaeological sites within the municipal limits of Tarragona—they can be freely explored or toured with a group and guide. Just outside the city, four kilometres away, is the Roman aquaduct (Aqüeducte de les Ferres), also known as the Devil’s Bridge (Pont de Diable). This magnificent construction, which is 27 metres tall and 217 metres long, was built to bring water from the nearby Francolí river to the city. Like the amphitheatre and the city walls, it is an open-air monument, so no entrance fee is required. Once you’re overwhelmed by Roman ruins, head to the city’s excellent Museu Nacional Arqueològic to make sense of them all.

by Katie Addleman

April 1, 2008

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