by Nick Lloyd

July 28, 2011

A black Ford saloon sporting a Catalan flag drives along a flat stretch of the La Coruña road in the pine-clad Guadarrama mountains, east of Madrid. In addition to the chauffeur, inside sits a militia captain, a journalist and a Catalan politician. The car is travelling at some speed, and shoots past several groups of soldiers, resting from the relentless sun, who are unable to warn it to stop. The four men confidently continue until they are finally stopped at a small building at Kilometre 52, known as La Casilla de la Muerte (the Little House of Death), because trucks bearing fresh seafood from Galicia to the Spanish capital regularly crashed in its vicinity. They get out of the car and salute the officers and soldiers with a ¡Viva la República!, explaining that they are on their way to visit the troops at the front. The officers return their fraternal greetings and invite them inside the hut for a drink. The travellers reply they are in a hurry and move to return to the car, but the soldiers turn their guns on them, this time ordering them inside the hut. It is August 6th, 1936 and the group have inadvertently crossed into Nationalist Spain. Within a few hours they will all be dead: shot and buried in an unmarked grave by the roadside. Among them is Josep Sunyol, newspaper owner, member of the Spanish parliament for Esquerra Republicana de Catalunya and president of FC Barcelona.

Sunyol had been sent several days earlier by the Generalitat to liaise with the Republican government in Madrid. The war was much closer to Madrid than to Barcelona at this point, and he took the opportunity to pay a visit to the front lines so he could report to the Catalan government, offer his support to the men fighting and perhaps to engage in a bit of what could be termed ‘military tourism’. At the outbreak of hostilities, barely two weeks before, there had been a mad rush by both sides to gain the commanding heights and passes in the Guadarrama mountains, forever associated with the Spanish Civil War thanks to Hemingway’s For Whom the Bell Tolls, and Gary Cooper’s performance in the film adaptation. The Madrid press was full of wildly optimistic accounts of how the fascists were being driven back. One newspaper even reported how hikers were returning to the hills, known by the Madrileños simply as La Sierra. The Ministry of War was also issuing propaganda to a similar effect, giving the impression that the area was very much safer than it really was. This may help to explain Sunyol’s cavalier attitude in trying to the reach the front. In reality the lines were changing every day, and it was the enemy who had the upper hand.

by Nick Lloyd

July 28, 2011

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