PARTRIDGE
With so much emphasis now on what we put in our bellies—local, organic, non-GM (genetically modified), biodynamic—it’s a good time to explore alternative options to the meat in supermarkets, much of which is so unimaginative anyway. Luckily, Catalan markets offer a truly great mix of farmed and wild fowl, which can jazz up a roast dinner as a real treat.
Wild partridge (perdiz in Castilian, perdiu in Catalan) comes into season in October and finishes in January, and is particularly good if you’re not keen on conventional red meat. In fact, it has a higher iron content than either lamb or beef and the meat is deeply flavourful without being too gamey. You’ll see a lot of it hanging in the butchers at this time of year still in full plume (ask them to prepare it for you), and it’s a brilliant alternative to the traditional Christmas bird, especially if your gathering is small. I generally work on the basis of a half bird per person, and literally just season it well with salt and pepper and throw it in the oven at 180ºC for about 30 minutes.
For something a little bit festive, and with a distinctly Catalan flavour, rub the bird in plenty of butter and season well with salt and pepper. Peel and core two large, firm pears and cut into thick wedges. Arrange in the bottom of a small baking tray or casserole with a couple of sprigs of thyme and place the partridge on top. Add a glass of moscatel and roast at 220ºC for 30 minutes. Serve with roast potatoes or a heap of mash, some green beans and the pan juices on the side. TS
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