by Kirsten Foster

July 1, 2008

Nowadays we are all being urged to eat more local food. Although the concept of ‘food miles’ has been somewhat criticised as a measure of sustainability, there are other considerations that make eating locally a sound choice for conscientious eaters. “Eating is an agricultural act,” American farmer and writer Wendell Berry once wrote. His idea was that eaters should see themselves as an integral part of the chain of food production and, to that end, should familiarise themselves as much as possible with the production process of the food they eat. One of the ways he suggested we do this was: “Learn the origins of the food you buy, and buy the food that is produced closest to your home. The locally produced food supply is the most secure, freshest and the easiest for local consumers to know about and to influence.”

Food and agriculture is an intrinsic part of any culture, and this is particularly true in Catalunya, with its political, economic and social history reflected in its cuisine; dishes and products vanish and reappear, echoing the movements of people between city and country, industry and agriculture. To try and prevent any more disappearances, European governments are giving recognition to their nations’ gastronomic heritages with two certificate schemes.

The European DOP (Denomination Origin Protected; in Catalan—Denominacion d’Origen Protegida) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication; or Indicacions Geogràfiques Protegides; or IGP) certifications recognise the cultural significance of certain special food products. It highlights their unique characters, which are the result of a close relationship between the product, the environment and local human skills—herding, fishing, farming, etc.—resulting in foodstuffs of distinctive quality and historic and cultural significance.

So why not explore the unique agricultural treasures that Catalunya has to offer? Invite friends round for a DOP/IGP dinner—there are plenty of products fit for every course, from the hors d’oeuvres to the sobretaula. You can find out more information about Catalunya’s DOP and IGP products in a guide produced  jointly by the Generalitat’s Departament d’Agricultura, Alimentació i Acció Rural and Fundació Alicia, available at www.alicia.cat.

HORS D’OEUVRE

Llonganissa de Vic IGP and Oli de l’Empordà DOP

There’s evidence that sausage curing has been going on in the Plana de Vic since the fourth century CE. The geographical properties of this valley have a direct influence on the production of llonganissa: a wide channel from the Pyrenees to the coast, flanked by the mountains of Montseny and the Collsuspina, its relatively high altitude and cool but gentle breezes, the lesser influence of the warmer, moist Mediterranean air plus cold winters all make it ideal for charcuterie making. Select pieces of lean pork and bacon fat are mixed, seasoned with salt and pepper, stuffed into natural skins and cured for a minimum of 45 days in assecadors (drying-rooms), where the sausage skins obtain their natural white bloom.

by Kirsten Foster

July 1, 2008

Latest Comments

  • Delicious

    This is one of the best places in the world for eating local products as the mediterranean diet is very healthy and Barcelona is surrounded by dry and wet lands, so there's everything one needs in the local market. I guess that every day that I go to the supermarket rather than the local market, I am surrendering one day of my elder life.

    Posted by David May 20, 2010 11:11:47

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