“The tree is my teacher,” Gaudí said, and columns mirror trees in many of his buildings. Heavily influenced by nature, at the Gaudí Centre samples of objects from nature are aligned with similar models or pictures from his buildings. Elsewhere, a snail and nautilus shell reflects the spiral staircase at the Sagrada Familia. Photos of Gaudí’s design team, most of whom travelled with him to his projects, are shown with detailed architectural drawings; there is a photo of Llorenç Matamali Pinol, his model-maker, who prepared the Plaça Reial street lamps in Barcelona. Original school records show Gaudí’s class lists and attendance records. He failed mathematics for the second time in 1864.
A surprise awaits on the top floor: the Gaudí Restaurant, a one-star Michelin spot, which allows visitors to conclude their tours with gourmet food. While prices average €60 per meal, with a Gaudí Centre admission ticket the bargain price is €20 for an outstanding lunch or dinner.
Away from the Gaudí Centre, saunter the Modernista walking trail to see 25 stunning buildings dotted around this tranquil town. The trail includes four fine examples of the work of Lluis Domènech i Montaner as well as other important Modernist architects. Domènech i Montaner was the architect of the Palau de la Música Catalana in Barcelona, and directed the Escola d’Arquitectura de Barcelona for 20 years. A 26th building of interest is the Institut Pere Mata, a mental institution, originally financed by wealthy Reus businessmen, and it is yet another dazzling Montaner work. Located four kilometres outside of town, it is well worth paying the taxi ride.
Imagine a wealthy businessman living in Reus in the late 1800s: work and life in general were tough. He was stressed out. What to do? Check into the opulent Institut Pere Mata, originally called The Madhouse of Reus. In the Wing of the Distinguished, a patient received psychiatric care, heard concerts in the salon, played billiards, tennis or futbol. Patients lived with art in the form of stained glass, mosaics, custom-designed furniture and hand-painted tiles, walls and ceilings. Extra time? There was a pool, bar and restaurant. For every three patients, a nurse was on hand in a room next door. A patient rapped on a screen to get her attention. Today, the screens have concave spots left by the pounding of hands. The dining room has a fruit theme of oranges: they are in the tile work, painted on walls and inlaid in the wooden furniture. Gracing 20 hectares with a view of the sea, each building in the Institut complex had a garden.
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