by Tara Stevens

October 1, 2007

You don’t have to be Charlie Brown to know that Halloween means pumpkins. Every October 31st pumpkin sellers rub their hands in glee at the thought of making a few extra bucks on their oversized squash. But both Halloween as it’s celebrated now and the pumpkin itself are imports from the Americas. The roots of Halloween are actually said to come from ancient Celtic festivals in Ireland, where there weren’t many pumpkins growing back in the day. Instead, the story goes, the original Jack, of Jack-o-lantern fame lit his way out of hell with a lantern made from a turnip. But it doesn’t have quite the same ring, does it, ‘Halloween turnip’? In fact, one wonders how anyone could make room even for a tealight in one of the slim little white turnips seen in the markets here.

When I was child in northwestern England, many aeons ago, I would make my Halloween lanterns out of rutabaga, which were a much more suitable size, but were extremely tough and quite stinky. Luckily, this root isn’t readily available in Barcelona. My advice is to embrace both of your other options—the pumpkin and turnip both have lots to offer in terms of health, happiness and Halloween fun.

Let’s turn to the turnip first, in honour of its greater age—at least on these shores. There’s a traditional saying that goes: “For All Saints, look to your turnips.” I’m not sure if this is some form of rustic double-entendre, or just a recognition that at this time of year it’s a good idea to make friends with a root vegetable for a vitamin boost before the winter.

The most famous Catalan turnip is the nap de Talltendre from the Cerdanya region, which is traditionally served with local duck (tiró) or pig’s trotters on All Saints day. The high manganese content in the local soil is said to give this king of neeps its distinctive flavour. However, although any turnip from the Cerdanya can be given the name of nap de Talltendre, it’s only those grown in the mineral rich soil of Bellver, in the villages of Talltendre and Orden that are said to have the right, distinctive flavour.

It’s not just the root of this veg that’s appreciated. Turnip tops are also eaten, especially in Galicia where grelos, as they’re called, are combined with meat, potatoes and other vegetables in the traditional caldo gallego.

by Tara Stevens

October 1, 2007

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