The cinglera—an inland cliff—is a defining landscape feature of central Catalunya: overlooking the Sau reservoir near Vic are the immense Cingles de Collsacabra; the Cingles de Busa loom majestically in the pre-Pyrenees of Solsona; the village of Castellfollit in La Garrotxa is defensively perched on its own cinglera. Much closer to Barcelona, and clearly visible from the city, are the Cingles de Bertí, only an hour away by train or bus whenever you feel like a walk on the edge.
Named after the parish of Sant Pere de Bertí, the escarpment ripples grandiosely along one side of the Congost River, from La Garriga to Centelles. On the opposite side of the valley are the more rounded, far older mountains of Montseny. Created by the upheavals in the Palaeocene and Eocene epochs (starting around 65 and 56 million years ago, respectively), when much of Catalunya lay under the sea, the Cingles de Bertí are a recent formation, geologically speaking, too young to have witnessed the dinosaurs. At their base are deep red conglomerate rocks, while the higher strata are pale limestone packed with marine fossils. This alkaline environment explains the rich variety of orchids growing on the Cingles, unlike in Montseny with its acidic soils.
To walk on the edge of the escarpment is to tread a line between the tamed farmland on one side and wild inaccessible woodland below. Eye contact is made with passing cliff-nesting raptors like kestrels and peregrine falcons. A roost of ravens favour the rocky ledges near the Aiguafreda telecommunications mast where they spend hours aerial dancing, executing barrel rolls and bill knocking. Vultures occasionally cruise past on excursions from more northerly mountains.
And above all, there are the views. You constantly need to stop to take in their immensity. The panorama is at its sharpest and most dramatic in winter, when Montseny glows white with snow, and the crisp northerly air stretches the horizons from the Pyrenees to the sea.
A full day’s excursion is highly recommended, starting from Sant Feliu de Codines, where you can pick up a long-distance Gran ruta (walking route), the GR 5, which will eventually drop you off at the train station in Aiguafreda (after 23.5 kilometres). It’s quite well marked with the GR red-and-white signs, but for safe navigation, it’s best to take a map (Alpina Mapa i guia excursionista series, nº. E25).
Latest Comments