by Susanna Jacobs

November 16, 2010

Alt Urgell is a land of mountains, valleys and water, situated in the centre of the high Pyrenees. Bordered to the north by the tiny principality of Andorra, the comarca occupies an area of 1,446 square kilometres, but with around 20,000 inhabitants it is one of the least densely populated counties in Catalunya. The region is characterised by small rural communities nestled in valleys, next to rivers and surrounded by green fields, pines and firs. Some mountain villages are no longer inhabited, leaving small clusters of rustic stone houses, partly ruined, while other communities have been displaced by the creation of reservoirs in the 20th century. Remains from earlier times include many examples of Romanesque architecture (mainly churches, but there are also some bridges). Although some traditional trades such as basket-weaving, lace-making and stone-cutting still survive, tourism is playing an increasingly active role in the local economy, which is mainly based on agriculture, dairy farming and fishing.

Things to see

The comarca’s capital, La Seu d’Urgell, lies in a northern plain just beside the meeting point of the region’s two principal rivers, El Segre and La Valira. La Seu has a charming historic centre of colourful façades and streets lined with centuries-old arched walkways. On Tuesdays and Saturdays it doubles up as a market, with stalls selling everything from clothing and bags to hand-made food products. It is also the location of some of the most important buildings in La Seu, such as the 19th-century Palau Episcopal, the official residence of the Bishop of Urgell, who is also co-Prince of Andorra (a position the bishops of Urgell have held since the late 13th century).

La Seu’s Catedral de Santa Maria is held to be one of the grandest Romanesque buildings in the Alt Urgell. The cathedral has three naves and was constructed in the 12th century. It was restored at the beginning of the 20th by Catalan Modernista architect and politician Josep Puig i Cadalfalch. Other places to visit in the area include the Museu Diocesà d’Urgell, which houses a collection of religious art like Romanesque virgin statues and murals, as well as a Gothic altarpiece and a number of silver artefacts.

To the west of the historic centre, past the chalet-style houses of the main residential area, is the small green space of the Parc del Valira, by the river of the same name. Built in the late 20th century, the park presents a more modern representation of the cathedral in its shady cloister (a replica of the one adjoining the cathedral) with the rather unusual addition of sculptures of influential 20th-century figures like Winston Churchill and Pablo Picasso.

by Susanna Jacobs

November 16, 2010

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