The scene is Barcelona Zoo, and the birds putting on the show are grey herons (Ardea cinerea). A common enough species but rarely seen in the centre of a city, especially in such quantities and proximity. There are over 125 pairs in this corner of Ciutadella Park, nesting high in the treetops, which makes it the largest urban heronry in Europe.
The herons are sometimes mistaken by visitors as another exhibit, a decorative extra thrown in for the price of the ticket, like the peacocks who have the run of the place. But they are wild birds who have chosen to live in close proximity to man. When hunting for food outside the zoo grounds, they revert to extreme wariness, fleeing at the slightest human intrusion. Inside, other rules apply, providing a tremendous opportunity to observe them close-up.
Walking through the zoo on a mild spring morning, I spotted a heron in a palm tree snaking its neck to pluck some nesting material. Another had alighted in a plane tree to present a long twig to its mate. The pair raised their crests in greeting and exchanged raucous “ruarks”. Over by the penguin pool, herons kept guard, glassy eyes giving nothing away as they waited for feeding time.
Gradually, the zoo geared into action. A train laden with visitors wound along the paths, bell ringing. Flaming orange Cuban flamingos were in display mode, trumpeting in formation. Peacocks were screaming. Children on a school trip were yelling “Baloo! Baloo!” at a pair of slumbering bears. Adding to the congestion were lines of wide-eyed tiny tots hanging onto long ropes. Dodging all these obstacles were the zoo staff, mounted on bikes.
The heronry adds a few more decibels to the general cacophony. By the primate and pelican enclosures, a sign advises visitors to look up. But my attention had already been drawn to the treetops by a strange nattering sound.
Overhead, the towering plane trees were filled by large untidy nests. Scanning the boughs, I saw that several were occupied by chicks, the source of the babble. Goggle-eyed, spiky and ravenous, they were leaning out precariously, wobbling their throats and demanding food.

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